"Be Prepared For The Unexpected"

Government professor Diederik Vandewalle has written and edited four books about Libya—it's his area of expertise. He has also led Dartmouth-run alumni trips to the country. From these experiences he has culled many travel secrets. For travelers who make it into Libya, Vandewalle recommends a visit to Ghadames and the Acacus Mountains.

Ghadames

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this city in the Libyan desert used to be the home of the Berber people.

How to Get There: Libya has little tourism infrastructure, so any travel in Libya must be done through a prearranged professional tour groupsuch as the one Vandewalle leads for Dartmouth. When selecting a tour group make sure that yours includes Ghadames in its itinerary. This should not be too difficult because, according to Vandewalle, bus tours are available from Tripoli to Ghadames.

Why It's So Interesting: "Ghadames is called The White City because it's completely whitewashed," Vandewalle says. "It's in the desert and it reflects the heat back. It has unique architecture, called vernacular architecture, and it has its own irrigation system." Ghadames today is split into New Ghadames and Old Ghadames. Avisit to Ghadames should be for the old city. "Old Ghadames, of course, didn't have electricity," Vandewalle says. "It was a very traditional Berber city. It's in the middle of the desert, but it's very comfortable and cool inside the city. It's gorgeous, and has little courtyards, fountains and spectacular architecture."

Touristy Factor: People still live in Ghadames, but otherwise you and your tour group will probably be alone in your sightseeing endeavors.

Acacus Mountains

The Acacus Mountains are in the middle of the desert, about midway between the cities of Ghadames and Koufra. They're known for their prehistoric rock paintings.

How to Get There: The trips are organized locally from either Ghadames or Koufra. The local Bedouins or Tuaregs will take you and your tour group on a weeklong trip through the desert to see the paintings. You'll need to bring camping equipment.

Why It's So Interesting: "The Garamantes people were a prehistoric tribe that roamed what is now desert, but used to be quite fertile territory," Vandewalle explains. "They used to live in the Acacus Mountains, and they painted all the prehistoric paintings high up in the mountains. You have to climb up to see them. You can see elephants, giraffes and other such animals in the paintings, indicating that the whole area used to be inhabited and fertile." Additionally, half the fun is just getting there. "The only way you can get to them is by camel or four-wheel drive through the desert," he says. "It's pretty intense. If you do this trip you sleep in tents in the desert and bring everything with you, because there's literally nothing for 1,500 miles. It's pretty rough—very hot in the day, very cold at night. The guides will make tea in the mornings and breakfast, but otherwise it's veiy spartan—it's an adventure."

Touristy Factor: None. In fact, the prehistoric paintings have only recently been opened to the public. You'll be entirely alone with your group.

When you're in the area

See the Mediterranean: Vandewalle recommends the Ruins of Sabratha, which are about 45 minutes outside of Tripoli. "The Sabratha ruins with the amphitheater are really spectacular. All the ruins are against the sea, so you always get the Mediterranean as a backdrop."

Patience Is a Virtue: Vandewalle strongly cautions that tourism is not developed in Libya. The Corinthia, a five-star hotel in Tripoli, for example, is the only hotel in the country that accepts credit cards as payment. "Whoever goes to Libya has to be prepared for the unexpected," he warns. "Things won't always go as planned."