"See the Beautiful Architecture"

Geography professor emeritus and current MALS professor George Demko is also a faculty member in the geography department at Charles University in Prague. He loves the city and offers the following advice: You just can't miss a visit to Vysehrad and Holesovice.

Vysehrad

Its a park on a hill overlooking the city, and the site of Romanesque ruins. It's associated with a famous Czech myth about three princesses who became the nominal leaders of the Czech tribe.

How to Get There: Demko recommends either walking— Prague is a relatively small city—or taking a tram. Maps of the city's tram routes are usually available at hotels, so ask your concierge to explain one to you.

Why It's So Interesting: It's a park on a huge hill with views of the city. It borders the Vltava River, and on the other side of the river you can see a castle. "The views are spectacular, the park is beautiful," Demko raves. "The whole place is a gorgeous park, with walking trails and flowers. There's also a graveyard up there, where all the great Czech artists, authors and composers such as Antonin Dvorak are buried next to a church. The cemetery architecture is worth half a day's trip just on its own. There's a monument to a bunch of writers and it has a sign that reads, 'We may be dead, but we're not silent.' " Demko also raves about the cubist architecture of the city itself, visible from the hilltop. "Cubist buildings are very unusual," he says, "and you can see three or four really beautiful ones from Vysehrad."

Touristy Factor: "There's usually nobody there," Demko says. "Most tourists don't think to go there or don't know how to get there."

Holesovice

Located in the northern part of Prague, Holesovice is a public area beloved by the locals for its fairgrounds, recreational area and artsy exhibits.

How to Get There: Again, unless you're willing to walk, tram is the way to go. Demko says it's best to avoid taxis, because "cab drivers in Prague are notoriously evil and overcharge." If you are set on a cab, however, have your hotel phone one of the two telephone cab services—they are the most reliable.

Why It's So Interesting: "They often have book shows there or public lectures by great authors," Demko says. "There's an amusement park for children. What you see there are the everyday Czechs with their babies, their children. It's a wonderful place to spend a Saturday or Sunday. My philosophy has always been if you're going to see the country, see the countiy and the people. This is a great place to see and interact with the people of Prague. It's not a tourist place and it hasn't been corrupted by money."

Touristy Factor: It may be crowded, but the people aren't tourists. Holeshovic will give you a taste of the local flavor.

When you're in the area

Get the Inside Scoop: Demko says the key to learning the best secrets about a foreign country is to visit the local university. Contact a geography, sociology or anthropology department at the local university and ask them to give you tips for things to see and do. Since Demko is a faculty member at Charles University, it might be helpful to drop his name!

Good Eats: "There's an incredible restaurant in the basement of an old nunnery," Demko says. Called the Architects Club because the city's architectural society purchased it, it's located on the edge of the Old Town. "It's just a remarkable place," he says. "The ambiance is terrific."

Do as the Locals Do: When Demko leads tours in Prague he makes sure to take his groups on the trams so they can really experience the city as the locals do. "Trams are cheap and easy to use," he says, and "they allow you to see the beautiful architecture of the city."

Hitting the Streets MALS professor George Demko encourages visitors to walk or to hop on one of Prague's trams for a unique view of the city.