Climbing Mt. Olive

The current number of The CanadianAlpine Journal contains a story by our librarian, Prof. N. L. Goodrich. It sounds quite exciting:

The Ascent

From the Little Yoho Camp, a party consisting of L. Grassi, leader, G. A. Gambs, N. L. "Goodrich and M. Cropley, made the first ascent of Mt. Olive, on July 31, 1927. They left Twin Falls Chalet where they spent the previous night, at 4:15 a.m., reached the summit at 2:50 p.m., and Twin Falls again at 9:50 p.m. From the end of the pony trail at Yoho Glacier they crossed to the east side of the Glacier, mostly on rocks, but the second stream had to be crossed high up on ice. They continued to ascend by a wooded "island," crossed the east tongue of the glacier and gained the alplands on the north side of Gordon Creek. Continuing at that level they reached the glacier at the head of the Creek, passed around the east spur of Gordon to Vulture Glacier, and around the South, and higher peak of Olive by its east side, hoping to find a comfortable route to the col between the North and South peaks from its east side. They were forced, however, to climb steep snow and debris-covered slabs to the crest of the East arete of the South peak (that is, they climbed up the north face of this arete).

Reaching the arete near the middle, they found it very narrow and unstable and in one place roped down. A cairn was built on both peaks and names left. The arete between the two peaks is a mere walk. Fortunately, considering the hour, it was found that the descent by its west arete to Vulture col was very easy. It appeared also that an easy snow slope led to the North peak from the west. The ascent should have been made from the west instead of the east. The return was made by its same general route, after reaching Vulture Glacier, except that Gordon Creek was followed as closely as possible instead of keeping up on the alplands. This involved two or three bits of rock work discouraging to tired climbers, and it was necessary to climb up to the ice bridge again. One route is about as bad as the other. The south side of Gordon Creek looks easier travelling, but it cannot be reached without a bridge of some sort. The Fall of the Waves is a most unusual spectacle, well worth seeing. It resembles the Famous Tuolumme "water wheels."

A faster party, climbing from Vulture col, could cut two or three hours from the time.